Rolex Cellini Cestello Mens Watch
When we think about Rolex, we think about sport models like Submariner, or dress models like the Datejust and Day-Date, but it's important to remember that Rolex has a range of luxury dress watches in its Cellini collection.
, announced today, is a very elegant expression of the traditional 3 handed watch, equipped with center seconds, minutes, and hour hands. The Cellini collection also includes the Cellini Date (with the date) and the Cellini Dual Time, with a two time zone complication and day/night indicator. In this article I will focus exclusively on the Cellini Time - which is the most basic and traditional of three models.
Traditionally, Cellini models share very little with their Rolex sport and dress watch brethren. They use different cases, dials, and handsets. However, as we read the specifications, innovations pioneered for the 3135 movement have made their way back into the calibre used in the 2014 Cellini range. Notably, it's a self-winding movement with a Blue Parachrom hairspring with Breguet overcoil, beating at 28, 800 beats/hour (4Hz), equipped with 31 rubies.
With the new models comes an increase in size, to 39mm. The new models are all equipped with a double bezel, fluted and then domed. The crown is a tapered fluted affair that screws down to the case, helping it attain its 50 meter water resistant rating although these Cellini models - as they have historically done - are among the few Rolex watches without an Oyster-style case. The caseback is a domed back with flutes that recalls some of the models from Rolex's history. The lugs have more in common with those of a Datejust than they do with a Cellini Cestello or Cellini Prince. It's not wrong to say that this new collection feels like Rolex is referencing the very best of their history in these elegant timepieces, and further attempting to present to the consumer a dress watch for tuxedo or very formal occasions.
This collection really resonates with me. I'm a fan of vintage pieces and the history behind them. The Rolex Cellini Time feels like it was created by a manufacture that understands their history and approaches it with reverence. Interestingly, the minute track is not at the edge of the dial, but instead it bisects the hour markers. I'm not sure that I'm a fan of the dial markers being split by the minute track. If the markers weren't so long, or the minute track as far in from the edges as it is, the hands might be too short. As implemented, the minute hand reaches the minute track and the hour hand reaches the hour markers and it feels well-proportioned.